Outlaws and Icons: Navigating the 80s London Fashion Revolution
Our-founder Steph on Taboo times
My Fashion Renegade’s Tale
The London fashion scene of the 1980s was a whirlwind of creativity and individualism, one part of which has been brought to life at Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London – the latest show at the Fashion and Textile Museum. Teri and I were lucky to go to the opening, where I ran into my friend Greg. I first met Greg, who was a stylist, some time ago when I lived in Barcelona. During my last summer there, days were spent on the beach in Sitges and nights in bars and clubs with friends and friends of friends, including designers like John Moore, make-up artists and creators that gave me a pathway into another world.
London Nights
Once back in London, I picked up from where I’d left off – a swirl of dressing up and going out. Out every night, I’d go to Pansies the short time it existed, up the road from work in Dingwalls, Camden, on Sundays where Space lipsynched to Is That All There Is; Tuesdays were the Daisy Chain at the Fridge in Brixton, Wednesday P-funk night at the Limelight, Fridays were Heaven or the Mud Club where I was lucky enough to get a pass from promoter and all-round dandy Philip Sallon. The WAG, too, many times. A heady mix of gay and straight nights I’d bump into those making waves and pick up fashion inspo for the following week’s outfits.
DIY & Ready to Wear
Working at Rokit I had a ready-made wardrobe, but if I had an image of what I wanted to wear and couldn’t find it, I’d make my own – or have my mum knit it for me. I fancied a red velvet dress – buy the fabric in Brixton market, cut around a dress I already had and glue the seams, ready to wear. At a club I saw make-up artist Jalle in a sequined tee and waistcoat – a trip to Soho for trimmings and a couple of weeks of nightly sewing and I had my own. I could go from full-length gold glam to micro mini courtesy of my mum’s 70s lame dresses. And if I stayed with friends after a night out I’d change at the shop – a US police shirt, ski pants and vintage flying jacket just one example.
Designer Dreams & Hyper Hyper
When I could afford it, I’d shop in Hyper Hyper on Kensington High Street. This fashion bazaar showcased works from BodyMap, Pam Hogg – there are replicas on show along with Leigh Bowery’s Spend, Spend, Spend in the exhibition – and the early creations of John Galliano. Some of my favourite buys came from here, cord and leather flares, and a BodyMap tee and waistcoat – rare survivors of numerous moves.
Outlaws Show
It was fun, full-on, riotous and fairly short-lived. It’s been good to be reminded of it after the Outlaws trip. The show, co-curated by our friends NJ Stevenson and Martin Green, centres around the nightclub Taboo, opened by designer and performance artist Leigh Bowery in 1985. My ‘wild times’ came a few years after this and were not in the same league, but Leigh did once stand on my foot on the dancefloor.
What Ops&Ops Wore
For the show opening, I donned my BodyMap gear under a velvet trouser suit and No16 Gold Duo, Teri opted for a Le Roka bomber jacket – embellished with Tatty Devine BodyMap brooch – anchored with No16 Slick Sandstone. And in among the wall-to-wall blaze of fashion fabulous on the night, our Ops fitted right in. In fact, we were having such a blast we didn’t even get a photo!
You can find both styles and all our No16 colourways here.
